Cotton fabric



* UNITED PATENT o suede-finish effect.

Patented Feb. 10, 1925.

,janiirfib jeossira'np, 'orhnnoiu, SWVITWZERLAND. i

f corron shame.

bpplicatidn fileii August 22; 1922... Serial nowssaase.

ToalZ-iv/iouzitmay concerns A Be it known that *1, ARNou) Bossnann, a citizen of the Republic? of Switzerland,residing at i-trbon, Switzerland, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Cotton Fabrics, of which the following is a specification, reference belnghad therein to tlieaccoinpaiiying. drawing.

In thecase of knf ted goods,such, for example, as those used for making gloves, it

is known to produce a so-called suedeiinish, which effect 18 based on cutting open, or

shearingfofl' the loops thatLstandout at right angles to the fabric, so that a velvety surface is obtained. In the case of woolen fabrics it is also known to teazle or nap ,them in order to produce niolletonss and sfustian; Raising and.-the.,production of similar effects on cotton fabrics have not 20- hitherto ,been practicable, since grinding rendered the goods brittle because a portion ,ofthe threads would be almostv completely worn through, that is to say excessively weakened. i i 1H The subject of the presentinvention is a method of lnanufacturing a new type of cotton fabric in which the threads, on one or both sides, are altered in such away as to conceal the structure of the fabric, partially if not completely, and produce a. compact, The fabric handles as soft as velvet, in consequence of a delicate superficial raising produced by grinding the cotton fabric after the same has been put through a preparatory treatment consisting in calendaring or pressing the raw fabric and bringing the whole of the warp and weft threads on the surface intended to be raised, napped or ground into one plane in such a way that they are all affected by the raising, napping or grinding process and a uniform effect over the wholeof the fabric is thereby produced.

The effect produced by raising is obtained by the fact that individual filaments are drawn up out of warp and weft threads alike, which fibres drawn out of the opened threads, partially conceal the woven strucs ture of the cotton fabric, so that a kind of velour de laine efi'ect is produced uniformly overthe whole fabric. The depth of the nap dependsupon the length of the filaments drawn up out of the opened portions of the Warp and weft threads. In grinding with emery discs, the depth of this nap, that is to say the length of the drawn out fibres re-.calendered and sing.

is determined by the fineness or coarseness of the emery-discs chosen; The finerthe emery, the shorter the individual protruding fibres; and the coarser the emery, the

:longer they are. c I t t i i The process according to the invention is applicable to any yarn count in theoriginal cotton fabric. Instead of producing the desired effect by a singlencalendering and grinding, a preliminary calendering and grlnding can be given, the. goods being then SHlJJGCtQCl. to a final grind- :i'lhe' pressing and. calende-ring of'the cotton fabric are preferably carried on in such "a manner that the warp and weft threads ofthe original fabric are not merely caused 1 to he in thesame plane, but are also flattened out, in consequence of which acloser union is' effected between the avarp and weft threads, thatis to say the fabric :is. given a unoreucompact appearance and the 'project- ,ing and depressed portions of the woven jistructure are levelled up, so thatthewvhole ofthe warp and weft threads are uniformly affected by theraising orqgi'inding process.

It has also been found beneficial to distend or swell the threads of the fabric, as indicated in Fig. 2, prior to pressing or calendering', by treatment with a known mercerizing fluid, for example, sulphuric acid of l9-51 B. strength, or caustic soda or potash solution of 30st0 136. This treatment can be carried out at the ordinary temperature, and also at a temperature varyin therefrom. During this treatment the fabric may be allowed to shrink, according to the yarn count and the desired effect, thus giving the fabric a more compact appearance-or the fabric may be kept stretched.

The accompanying drawing shows a diagrammatic-.11 illustration of the development of the final product according to a typical method of carrying out the process.

Fig. 1 shows the rough cotton fabric, in section, on a considerably enlarged scale,

the warp threads 1 forming an ordinary cotton fabric with the weft threads 2. After put through a calendering or pressing process, and acquires the appearance shown in Fig. 3, both warp and weft threads being not merely flattened out but also caused to' out of the threads and represent a pile or a velvety form. The warp and weft threads, 1 and 2, have been only slightly weakened b the grinding, which, however, has affected all of them in an equal degree, so that the desired effect, on the one side of the cotton fabric, is completely uniform and conceals the ori 'nal interstitial spaces 3. Fig. 5 shows t at the effect can be produced on both sides, a pile 4 being formed on both the front and back of the cotton fabric; The rocess may also be carried out by firstcaenderingthe rough cotton fabric,

then napping it and subjecting itto treatment withran alkali or acid-with or without shrinking-then re-calendering, and

thereupon producing the desired final effect by napping. If the fabric be allowed to shrink, the fine hairs raised by the first napping draw closer together, the threads of the fabric also becoming more closely interlocked. The structure is more compact than when shrinking is prevented by keepingthe fabric stretched, since, in that case, only the fine hairs draw closer together, whereas the threads retain their position.

In grinding the prepared cotton fabric, a slight pressure is employed, by means of which the cottonfabric is drawn away under the emery discs.

The fabric illustrated in Fig. 1 is merely an example of an ordinary cotton fabric, but the original material may also" consists of calico, serge or drill.

I claim: i

LA process for the manufacture of a new type of cotton. fabric, which comprises subjecting the fabric to a, preliminary pressing and a superficial napping, then swelling the fabric with a mercerizing solution, then pressing the swelled fabric to bring the whole of the warp and weft threads on a level, and finally napping the fabric a second time. p

2. A process for the manufacture of a new type of cotton fabric, which comprises subjecting the fabric to a preliminary pressing and a superficial napping,.then swelling the fabric with a mercerizing solution and stretching it, then pressing the swelled fabric to bring the whole of the warp and weft threads'on a level, and finally napping the'fabric a secondtime.

. In testimony whereofI afiix my signature.

ARNOLD BOSSHARD. 

